Day 18: somewhere in Idaho

RV camping place let us pitch a tent in their yard last night. Got to smell lots of grilling while we ate our pasta sides.

Back and forth today with two other groups of riders. 

Pretty and mellow riding. Along with our first glimpses of some random big mountains in the distance.

Wyoming tomorrow. 

They look oh so GRAND.

Awesome descent along the Warm River.

Idaho!

No thunderstorms!!!!! 

More large expanses of Montana to start the day.

Mostly easy miles other than a remarkably continuously bumpy road that got to be a bit frustrating.

Finally a continental divide crossing with a sign! A divide crossing and finally done with Montana. Here's hoping we left her weather with her.

We ran into a crew filming some sort of documentary as well.

And had a stand off with a bull. He was big and staring at us and very close. Finally we got up the nerve to ride by him. He didn't care.

Russ bus

Sometimes you are having a kind of boring rest day after deciding you won't hit your goal. Then sometimes a friend drives a long way with fresh beer and it doesn't matter any more. Cheers Russ Bus!

Also we cooked our own steaks on a grill outside a bar. Because Montana.

Lima, MT: maybe time for some rest.

Yesterday was a rough one.

We started off from the hostel (bunks in a tackle shop) at high country lodge, where we had a nice stay. 

Yet again we were plagued by thunderstorms from the start. We got slammed by one at around 10 am and while cold, it only lasted 15-30 minutes.

Then sometime after lunch my energy level plummeted. I could barely spin in the granny gear up short hills. Another storm was bearing down so we threw up the tent quickly and I immediately passed out for 1-1.5 hours. Afterwards I felt normal.

We met up with a British guy who lives in Qatar and was racing (we've been meeting some of the back of the pack racers in recent days). 

We crested the top of the one climb of the day and were immediately in a big tstorm. No sweat, we were descending. 

Maybe a half mile into the descent I lost control of my bike and was sliding wildly all over the trail. When I stopped and got back on the bike my wheels wouldn't move. The mud was so thick it had built up and stopped my wheels. The same happened to Jennie and the Qatar guy. We were pretty freaked out as the lightening strikes were very close and we were in the open at 7500 ft or so. 

We then pushed the bikes 2-3 miles through the sage brush off the road. Even pushing the bike across the road would pick up so much mud it would lock up the tires. About a half mile after we were able to ride on the road again we found a spot to camp and stayed the night. 65+ miles, 12 hours.

This morning we rode the 40 or so miles to Lima. Storms around but none hit us. The ride started with more wide open Montana (pic below) and then we weaved down through some really cool dry canyons with lots of steep rock. It was a great ride. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics with my phone.

Anyway, the long diatribe is to describe the conditions that have really beat us down over the past two weeks. Physically we are doing well but we are failing to put in the requisite big miles in crappy weather. And our nerves are fried from the thunderstorm encounters. The weather is supposed to change after tomorrow so we may wait here and then start riding again. Either way we are most certainly not going to finish. So soon we will pick a new destination for an end point. Probably somewhere where getting to an airport won't be a problem and the daily mileage to get there is manageable enough for us to take our time, enjoy, and maybe even explore a little. Southern Colorado? Northern New Mexico? Ideas welcome.

Polaris, new map tomorrow

Butte to Polaris today. 85 miles or so.

Couple of firsts: highest I've been on a bike ~7800 ft (soon to be surpassed) and longest climb at ~30 miles.

We got an early start and dodged tstorms all day but didn't get rained on!!! 

Saw some fun new terrain today too. Here is a picture of me standing by my bike with some of it. Oh and we saw a funny looking bird.. Big w long legs.. Need to check on that one.

Butte, live from Quarry brewery

We're in Butte. It is raining again. 

Going to try for Polaris tomorrow.

After the storm we got caught in before Helena we needed repairs badly. Those weren't done until 2 and then we got caught in another tstorm high up after starting to ride. Made it 20 miles. Cooked dinner in the awning of a pit toilet. It was nice and safe feeling even when the booms were close.

Basically another lost day. Finishing at this point has been downgraded to "everything has to go perfect" from "not too much can go wrong" we'll keep in mind the mileage necessary for us to finish bit I think it is going to become even less of a focus.

Anyway, the riding today was mostly glorious. A bunch of technical rocky stuff over 7000 ft and a really cool canyon. Then a tailwind to Butte with a brief stop over in a tunnel to figure out what the thunderstorms were doing.

Beers now, bigger miles tomorrow.

Yea yea. Super fun on a loaded bike!

T-storm tunnel.

Helena

Clear cuts is the phrase of the day. Started off the day not being able to find shade in oppressive heat because of clear cuts and then ran like hell from lightening through clear cut after clear cut with no shelter.

Big day today, Nelson campground to Helena .. 90 miles on the trip computer. 80 yesterday and 70 the day before. Starting to feel like we're finding our stride. 

Today we rode 4 passes (3 big climbs) and crossed the divide 3 times.

After today though we may be back on the struggle bus. Our bikes are in rough shape after we got caught in a storm at the end of today. A day that started off hot ended cold and wet. I'm getting chain suck again and some brake pads are in order. So we need a bike shop tomorrow am before rolling...

Jennie at the first divide crossing of the day, nearly 7000 ft!

First divide crossing.

Starting descent of second climb.

Another muddy rainy mess, another motel stay. 

Seeley Lake

In Seeley Lake. Gorgeous riding yesterday and today! Stayed at Holland lake last night. Headed past Ovando hopefully today.

I rolled up fast on a bull moose this morning. It had just heard my whistle (blowing whistle around blind turns) and was running across the road. Impressive beast!

Half mayo half sweet and sour. Canned chicken. Add it to the recipe book.

Jennie's sweet real tree crocks were lost to the universe on a rocky downhill somewhere in Canada. These were procured in whitefish and will suffice.

I have lots more photos but they'll have to wait as most are on my camera.

Day 7: Ferndale

Would you look at that.. Sunshine.

Brakes bled and some new pads this morning. Also a nice walk around Whitefish with our amazing host, David. Some coffee, pancakes, bacon, and then a mellow and pretty short day down to Ferndale. Camping at a place that trains sled dogs.

Tomorrow is a bigger one, and begins another stretch where cell service is unlikely. So until next time...

Oh hey, rain! Whitefish MT. Day 6.

That's pretty much it. 50 something miles in the cold rain today. In Whitefish at the house of a friend of a friend (David), who was awesome enough to take us in! Rumor is the weather will improve soon...

Today's quote of the day: "I haven't taken a picture on anything but food since blue lake." -Jennie (blue lake was 4 days ago)

Eureka. Also rain.

Stayed at a hostel in Fernie to take refuge from the rain. We met another cyclist there. She's riding across Canada west-east. Goodluck Anne if you read this!!

Left Fernie in the rain in the morning and made good time on dirt roads that were in pretty good shape. After a highway interlude we ate poutine bc we were almost out of Canada.

10 miles before the border USA welcomed us with open arms and sunshine!! Sunshine! From my sampling there is no sunshine in BC or Alberta.

At the border we took pictures for "hands up-the pose", a fundraising project you should check out on Facebook. They have a scavenger hunt each year and this year the Canadian border was on the list!

Now we are in Eureka. We're taking refuge in a motel with about 6 other divide riders bc the weather is supposed to get bad again tonight. Yay. We may get creative with our route tomorrow.

The beer is substantially better and cheaper in Montana. 

Going to the sun... Hoping for some sun...

Fernie

Today started off at a beautiful blue lake.

12 miles of fun dirt road before breakfast.

Big big tasty breakfast.

Then, 40 miles of Canadian highway with rain and headwind. Some solid mountain bike drafting got us to Fernie.

Went to bike shop to address some issues and were told there was a 5 day wait on repairs. (Needed chain stretch measured and a wheel trued a bit) went to second bike shop and got everything taken care of in <30 mins!! 

We're drying out at a hostel now, they have beer... We hear.

Hope to cross back into good ole USA tomorrow!

A little dangerous for photos on the highway. So here is the hostel wall.

Sparwood

Coal mining country.

20 mile road cruise to recover turned into cold rain and headwinds. 

20 more to Fernie now. Keeping our heads down in the crappy weather.

Elkford

We're in Elkford for breakfast. Taking our time and adjusting to the riding. First day was a cold, rainy, muddy mess. But then had our first trail magic as a super expensive lodge we stopped at offered to let us sleep in their employee hang out yurt! Very nice respite...

Everything from cruiser dirt roads to hike a bike steepness and snow. Spirits are high and about to eat a very large breakfast.

Rolling out

We roll out tomorrow morning. Anticipating 2 days to Elkford where we will post if we can find wifi.

The bikes are packed. Here is mine fully loaded with 3 days worth of food, a bunch of water, and all other necessities.

It is distressing that there is no room for beer.

Banff pre ride

Assembling bikes and working out the kinks the hotel room in Banff. Tomorrow is the day! It's beautiful here, hopefully some pics later.

Update:

Calgary

Bike boxes everywhere! 

Looks like we may be able to follow tracks the whole way.

Oh snap

Oh snap x2:

1. Bikes were twice as expensive to check than advertised.

2. We're on our way!

*update from Chicago. Met one tour divide racer and saw 4 bike boxes other than ours go on the plane! 

Boxing

No part of that was fun. Boxing.. Or wrestling.

Adventures in smuggery

What is more smug than rolling with a homemade alcohol stove?

Rolling with a homemade alcohol stove made from cans of the best beer in the world. (Yea yea only according to beer advocate...http://www.beeradvocate.com/lists/top/)

Departing in 3 days. Three. Days.   !!

Packing is hard

Most of our gear laid out. Figuring out how to most efficiently pack it all proved challenging.

Jennie riding to the bathroom. A last minute change to panniers necessitated some rack tinkering.

Oh by the way, be sure to donate to Bike the US for MS!!

Donate on behalf of JP

Donate on behalf of Jennie